Doin' the tourist rag

Well, there I was, all by my lonesome self, wonderin' what to do.  I'd heard about a castle (well, what was left of it, anyway) called Ogmore Castle in southern Wales.  Now, it's not just a ruin.  Ogmore was a castle that guarded an important river junction, but there was more.

There's the legend of the White Lady.

It seems the ruins are haunted by the spirit of a lady, who can lead you to a hidden cache of gold.  One night, a merchant in town awoke to find her by his bedside.  She told him to follow, and led him to the ruins of the castle where she instructed him to remove a large stone that was on the ground.  Underneath it, he found a cauldron filled with gold!

"Take half, and leave the rest" she instructed.  He did so, and returned home a very rich man.  But, although he had more than enough money, he kept thinking about that other half.  One night (he wouldn't do it during the day for fear that he would be followed - he never revealed where his new-found wealth had come from) he returned to the castle.  Lifting the stone, he started to take the rest of the gold when the White Lady appeared.

"Foolish, greedy man!  Now you shall lose all that you have gotten!"  With that, she disappeared.  Quickly, he returned the gold he had taken and covered it up again with the stone.  But it was too late - within the week he sickened, and despite the best medical help money could buy, he quickly worsened.  Even upon his deathbed, he refused to reveal the location of the cauldron.  But that hasn't stopped many from searching for it, over the centuries.

No, I didn't find it, either.

Ogmore Castle, where the White Lady may still roam
Ogmore Castle, where the White Lady may still roam


Driving along, I came upon this very subtle warning delicately painted on the back of a bus:

Don't Play With Matches!

How come we don't get cool stuff like on the back of OUR buses???

Anyway, I got totally lost in the hills of Southern Wales, and eventually found my way to the bridge back to England.  I decided to head towards the Old Castle in Sherborne, which I visited when I was around 20 - a long time ago.  I got stuck in a massive traffic jam in Bristol, and the sun was starting to go down.  I drove south from there, vaguely towards Sherborne, thinking I would probably sleep in the car.  But it was getting later, and I was getting pretty tired, and I had no idea how far I could go or where I would park to sleep.  

Suddenly, I saw a "B&B" (bed & breakfast) sign and pulled into this beautiful little estate.  A gentleman came out and asked if I needed a room, and his wife showed me what was available.  I decided to stay there (for a very reasonable £25), and found out that it was called "The Parsonage".  Built in the 1600's, it's a "listed" building.  That means it can't be changed, and must be kept up in good shape.  

The Parsonage, in Farrington Gurney
The Parsonage, in Farrington Gurney

As it happened, my hosts were going to a nearby club to hear a great band (The Country Blues Band), so after getting directions I went, too.  Had a great time, drank some excellent beer, went back to The Parsonage and went to sleep.  DId I hear anything in the night?  Yes, but that could have been anything.  Plus, I was somewhat drunk, since I drank a couple of  pints of beer when I got back.

The next morning, my host Margot, told me about the Monk.  They've been there twelve years, and are currently selling as they would like to retire from the inn-keeping life.  BTW - the asking price is £775,000.  If I had the money, I'd buy it right now.

Anyway, in that time they've seen the Monk twice - once at the back door, and then again around the property.  There have also been unexplained events - things moving, breezes from nowhere, sounds...  you get the idea.  But the most interesting story was one they weren't around to witness.  It seems they had a guest there for a long term stay; about 18 months.  He told them the whole thing was rubbish, and there were no such things as ghosts.  But one morning, he came down to breakfast very shaken, saying he hadn't slept a wink all night.

Margot and her husband had gone out for the evening, leaving their guest alone.  Sometime after 11 pm, he heard a loud knocking at the front door.  The door knocker is an old metal one, and the reflected sound rings throughout the entire house.  Looking out his window, he saw the figure of a heavily hooded monk standing by the front door.  The figure was very solid looking, so the guest thought it was some kind of nut!  Then he heard the knocker thudding against the door again - once, twice, three times.  But the figure hadn't moved its arms!  It glanced from side to side, as if afraid and looking around to be sure it wasn't being snuck up on.  Then, right in front of the eyes of the now terrified guest. the figure melted away.

The front door where the Monk knocked for entry
The front door where the Monk knocked for entry

closeup of the door & knocker
closeup of the door & knocker

Who was he?  What was he afraid of?  What happened that would keep him here for all these years, and how can he be released?  Or, is his apparition just a replay of events long past, like a hologram that is visible under certain conditions?

What the hell do I know?  I just play the blues.

I continued on to Sherborne, to see the Old Sherborne Castle.  Built in the early 1100's by the Bishop of Canterbury, it soon fell into possession by the royal family and remained so for 200 years, serving at times as a fort, prison, and residence.  It was then repurchased by the Church in 1354, and stayed so until Sir Walter Raleigh came upon it.  He was completely taken with it, and began expressing his desire to Queen Elizabeth that it would make a nice reward for his great services to her.  He was either unaware or uncaring that a former bishop, St. Osmund, had cursed the property if anyone removed it from ecclesiastical hands.  Although St. Osmund died in 1099, before the castle was built, there was an early Christian enclosure beneath the castle.  This accounts for St. Osmund's insistence on the property remaining within the church.

In January of 1592, Sir Raleigh was given a 99 year lease on the castle, and began to update it with new windows and other structural improvements.  However, things were already starting to go wrong.  Sir Raleigh had secretly married Elizabeth Throckmorton, one of Queen Elizabeth's maids of honor.  The new Mrs. Raleigh have birth to their son in March of 1592, at which point court gossip brought it to the attention of the Queen.  Whether due to her previous relationship with Raleigh, or the fact that he had married one of her prized maids of honor without permission, the Queen's anger was roused and Raleigh was arrested and imprisoned (with Bess) in the Tower of London.  Fortunately, the were released by Christmas of the same year, and returned to Sherborne to continue the improvements.  After three years, the costs were overbearing.  Raleigh built another manor house to live in (called Sherborne Manor), probably still intent on finishing work on the castle.  The manor house still exists in beautiful condition, and is now called Sherborne Castle - while this is called "Old" Sherborne Castle.

In 1603, Queen Elizabeth died and James I ascended the throne.  In July, 1603, Raleigh was implicated in a plot to replace James with his cousin, Lady Arabella Stewart.  He was arrested, charged with high treason, and confined to the Tower under sentence of death.  He remained there for the next 13 years.  Sherborne Castle was given to Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset.

Carr was in love with Frances Howard, the Countess of Essex.  Only one problem - she was already to be married.  Yes, at the advanced age of 13, she was to be married to Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex.  Since there was no way to avoid this, she managed to procure drugs that made Devereux impotent.  After three years of unsuccessful attempts to consummate his marriage, he was forced to allow her to divorce.  She then turned her attentions to Carr.  New problem: Carr's mentor, Thomas Overbury, thought she was a "filthy, base woman" and tried to dissuade his protégé from having anything to do with her.  But her uncle, Henry Howard, had great influence at court.  Overbury soon found himself arrested for what amounted to insubordination (he rejected an offer from the King to be a Russian ambassador, on the advice of none other than Carr, who convinced him he should stay in England) and imprisoned in the Tower.

There, the Countess was able to get the underkeeper of the Tower to provide wonderful tarts, pastries and other goodies to Overton - all laced with poison.  Over a period of four months, he was slowly murdered in an agonizing, horrific death.  The plot was discovered when, under suspicion, the underkeeper confessed.  The Countess and Carr were both imprisoned in the Tower, although their rank in society and the King's influence saved them from the executioner.  An exhibit showing the pastries and telling the story is in the Bloody Tower, in the Tower Of London.

The castle was then sold to John Digby, but during the Civil War (1642-1646) the castle was captured and stripped of its defences.  It fell into disrepair, and is now a ruins.

But, on September 29, the spirit of Sir Raleigh (executed in 1618 after being released and re-arrested two years later) is said to return to Old Sherborne Castle, where he spent some of the best years out of his troubled, famous life.

Sherborne Castle
Old Sherborne Castle

What Sherborne once looked like
What it once looked like

Although it's now a ruins, it's a beautiful place.  When I first saw it, there was only an elderly man who showed me around the grounds and explained a bit about it.  Now, it's been taken over by the English Heritage Society, who have cleaned it up and put up numerous signs (and a snack stand, of course.)  So now, it's fall into disrepair has been halted, and (hopefully) it will still be accessible for years to come.